Zakopane – Wandern in der hohen Tatra

Arrival to the south of Poland

The journey from Warsaw to Zakopane takes just under 6 hours and there was a direct connection that left at 6:30 in the morning. The train was an intercity and we read on the internet that you need a reservation for this train. To be on the safe side, we booked the tickets quite early, because we didn't know how fully booked it would be. We had a small compartment with three other people and enjoyed the relaxed ride with a view out the window.

So we arrived at the train station in Zakopane at about 12:30 pm and with us several other visitors, loaded with hiking boots and other equipment. From the platform you could already see the mountains - a dream! Even for us after a month in the flat Baltic States this was simply impressive. We stayed in Zakopane for 6 days, which we wanted to use for hiking in the high Tatras. I was really surprised how beautiful this corner in Poland is!

First adventures in Zakopane

Since we couldn't check into our accommodation until late afternoon, we dropped our big backpacks off at a souvenir store near the train station for a few zloty and then set off directly to explore the area a bit.

We came across a river and decided to walk up it for a while. That actually worked out quite well and except for me who stepped into the water with one foot, nobody landed in the water.

That was already a great foretaste, but it should become even more beautiful! When it was time, we picked up our backpacks from the souvenir store, and made our way to our accommodation, from which we once again had a beautiful view:

While Tomek was resting a bit, Ulli and I went to a small supermarket. Since it was Sunday, the big stores were closed and we squeezed into a small market with many other visitors. Our goal was to cook a delicious dinner and buy enoug water and provisions for the hike the next day. We decided to go for pierogi and bought some vegetables in addition. Unfortunately we just reached for the pierogi pack without worrying that it was in the freezer with the frozen cakes and ice creams. At the end of the cooking process while tasting it, I noticed that we had just bought sweet pierogi with cream cheese, which doesn't taste very good with onions and also not with vegetables. Dear mother-in-law: I need tutoring! <3

After enjoying this culinary specialty, our daily plan for tomorrow's hike followed. In the High Tatras there are countless hiking trails with different degrees of difficulty and lengths and we wisely decided not to start with the hardest tour for the time being but to hike a medium-difficult route.

1st hike: Ascent of the summit of Kasprowy Wierch (1987m) and subsequent ridge hike

The first hike led us to the summit of Kasprowy Wierch (1987m), which can be reached either by a 20-minute ride with the cable car or on foot in 3 hours. We bravely decided to take the footpath, because we still assumed that although it is not an easy tour, it is not the hardest. So we first walked 3,5km to Kuznice, where the cable car went up and then we turned off into the National Park Tatra. We saw the really long queue to the cable car and our decision not to take it was confirmed once again. At the entrance of the national park we had to pay a small entrance fee. The way was very relaxed at first, but went continuously slightly uphill until it got steeper and steeper. The views were fantastic - but I quickly noticed the altitude difference while breathing and the long steep paths were really hard to miss, especially for me. The higher it went, the more breaks I had to take. The trail was really well attended and I found it really interesting that many Polish families with their smaller children or grandparents chose the steep ascent.

At some point we actually made it to the top and after a short break we started a ridge hike to two more peaks on the border to Slovakia. The views were really a dream and all the effort was so worth it. From the second summit we started the way back to Zakopane. Altogether we were on the way for about 9 hours! I had actually underestimated the distance and the altitude and maybe overestimated my personal fitness a little bit. But also Tomek and Ulli were very exhausted in the evening, because the hike was really not without its difficulties.

2nd hike: Czarny Staw, a pass and a landscape of mountain lakes

The second hike the next day took us back to Kuznice and then to the mountain lake "Czarny Staw" (black lake), which is located at about 1,580m. The way there took about 2.5 hours and was also really exhausting!

When we arrived at the lake, it was already very crowded, but we found a rather quiet place at the water and took a break. For refreshment we had Kabanossi (polish dry sausages) and self made sandwiches with us.

But the hardest part came afterwards. Because from Czarny Staw it went up to a pass at 1853 meters! The way up was very steep and very exhausting, but the view of the Czarny Staw was worth the effort!

My absolute highlight was when we arrived at the top of the Karb, with the Czarny Staw on the left below us and a landscape full of small mountain lakes on the right below us. These all had a different color and I was blown away by this picture! I really didn't think that there are such beautiful views in Poland and I think this hike was my favorite of all.

From the top we still had the possibility to climb another peak at 2.155m, but since we still had the whole way back in front of us and didn't want to overdo it, we hiked down to the mountain lakes. A smaller one was a bit more hidden between the peaks and Tomek and Ulli couldn't help it and had to jump into the freezing cold lake! The way back to Zakopane led us past the smaller mountain lakes, where we had to stop again and again. Altogether we were on the way for about 10 hours on this hike.

3rd hike: To the Wielka Siklawa waterfall and the mountain lakes Morskie Oko, Wielki Staw and Przedni Staw

After the hard two days before, we wanted to take it a little easier on the third hike, but still see as much of the fascinating landscape as possible. We started our trip with a bus ride further into the east of the Tatra Mountains. We wanted to hike to the popular excursion destination "Morskie Oko" (sea eye). When we arrived at the final stop, we had two hiking possibilities: An asphalted path, which leads us within 2 relaxed hours on a direct route to Morskie Oko or the steeper variant, which leads first to other mountain lakes. The decision for the steeper path was made quickly - and although the asphalt path was really very crowded, we were not the only ones with this choice. The hike was challenging but very beautiful and led along a river all the time.

A highlight was especially the waterfall Wielka Siklawa. We could get very close and take really nice pictures of and with it.

From there we went to the lakes "Wielki Staw" and "Przedni Staw", where we recovered and had a little break.

From these lakes it went up again really steep, almost unexpectedly strenuous and the sun popping from the sky made the climb really hard. But also this way was worth every effort and we could look from above on the lakes where we had just had our break.

But the descent to Morskie Oko was also a tough one. It was a very long and steep descent on very narrow paths. On our hiking map there is also a note for this trail that it is closed from 1.12. to 15.5., because it would be too dangerous to walk there due to the slippery surface. It was exciting in any case! Soon we could see the Morskie Oko from above and got closer and closer to it.

When we arrived at the lake, we took the aforementioned two-hour paved road back to the buses, which then took us back to Zakopane.

4th hike: Ascent of the Giewont summit (1895m)

After the three exhausting but really beautiful days, Tomek decided not to spend the next day in the mountains. Ulli and I still hadn't had enough of hiking yet! The last hike took the two of us up the Giewont (1895m) - the mountain we can already see from our apartment and which is called the "sleeping knight".

After the last strenuous hikes I was not sure at first how well I would manage the ascent to this summit, but we were in no hurry and wanted to enjoy the last hike to the fullest. The trail was actually relatively relaxed compared to the days before (maybe I just got used to it). Nevertheless I needed a little breathing space every now and then, which we used for nice photos. Always looking at the summit cross we came closer and closer to our goal! Especially exciting was the last stage directly below the summit cross! With the help of iron chains we had to climb up the last meters on steps (and then climb down again). But that was really a lot of fun. The view of Zakopane and the High Tatras was amazing and it was a wonderful feeling to arrive there at the summit cross. We enjoyed a "nectarine with a view" and stayed up there for quite a while!